Hokkaido’s Winter Secret: Unveiling the Umami of Gokko-Nabe at the Esan Gokko Matsuri

The northern island of Hokkaido is a culinary paradise, famous for its pristine seafood and hearty winter dishes. While many travelers flock to Sapporo for miso ramen or to Hakodate for fresh uni and crab, a true connoisseur of umami knows to seek out a lesser-known, yet deeply rewarding, winter delicacy: Gokko-nabe. This soul-warming hot pot is the star of a unique local celebration, the Esan Gokko Matsuri, held annually in the scenic, volcanic region of Esan, near Hakodate.

The Festival: A Celebration of Winter’s Bounty

The Esan Gokko Matsuri is more than just a food festival; it is a vibrant winter tradition that brings the local community together to celebrate the seasonal catch. Held in the cold heart of February, the festival centers around the smooth lumpsucker, or Gokko (Aptocyclus ventricosus), a fish that thrives in the frigid waters off the coast of Mount Esan.

The event takes place at a special venue in front of the Michi-no-Eki “Natowa Esan,” transforming the snowy landscape into a bustling hub of local gastronomy. Visitors can purchase fresh Gokko and other local seafood, but the main attraction is, without a doubt, the freshly prepared Gokko-jiru (Gokko soup). The festival is a short, intense affair, typically running for just a few hours, and the popular soup often sells out quickly—a testament to its local fame. For those seeking an authentic, off-the-beaten-path Japanese winter experience, this festival is a must-visit.

Gokko: The Ugly-Cute Fish with a Heart of Umami

The star of the hot pot, the Gokko fish, is an unforgettable sight. With its round body, large head, and small, almost comical eyes, it is often described as “ugly-cute” or unique. Its Japanese name, Hotei-uo, literally means “Hotei fish,” named after Hotei, the pot-bellied god of contentment and happiness, one of the Seven Lucky Gods. This auspicious name hints at the fish’s winter importance.

The true magic of the Gokko lies beneath its unusual exterior. The fish is a winter treasure, prized for three distinct components:

1.The Flesh: The white meat is mild, delicate, and surprisingly lean, serving as a perfect canvas for the rich broth.

2.The Skin: This is the most unique part. The skin is thick and gelatinous, packed with collagen. When cooked, it becomes wonderfully jiggly and soft, providing a textural contrast that is both luxurious and satisfying. This high collagen content has made Gokko a favorite among locals for its perceived beauty benefits.

3.The Eggs: Female Gokko are highly sought after for their eggs, which are cooked directly in the soup. These small, firm eggs burst with a delightful, popping texture (プチプチ – puchipuchi) that adds another layer of complexity to the dish.

Gokko-Nabe: A Symphony of Texture and Flavor

Gokko-nabe (or Gokko-jiru) is the ultimate expression of this fish. It is a simple, rustic dish that perfectly balances the rich, savory flavors of the sea with the unique textures of the fish.

The broth is typically a light, yet deeply flavorful, soy sauce (shoyu) or miso base, made with kombu (kelp) dashi. The Gokko pieces—including the skin and eggs—are simmered alongside vegetables like daikon radish, carrots, and long green onions (naga-negi), and often finished with fresh seaweed (nama-nori) to enhance the marine aroma.

The resulting hot pot is a masterclass in textural contrast: the tender white flesh, the smooth, collagen-rich jiggly skin, and the delightful pop of the eggs. It is a dish that is both comforting and exciting, delivering a profound sense of warmth and a powerful punch of Hokkaido’s winter umami.

If your travels take you to Hakodate in the winter, make the short journey to Esan. Experiencing the Esan Gokko Matsuri and savoring a bowl of authentic Gokko-nabe is an essential pilgrimage for any food lover seeking the true, hidden flavors of Japan. It is a taste of Hokkaido’s winter soul, served hot.